![]() We spent much of our time in the Old Town, since it was right downstairs and hard to miss. Most of the streets in the city center prohibit traffic and are given over to pedestrian-friendly pubs and shopping. Our only issue was getting used to ducking around the low, angled ceilings upstairs – there were definitely some minor bumps and near-misses during our adjustment period. A second, much larger bathroom even featured a hot tub. We were much happier with the upstairs bedroom, which took up the entire upper floor between the roof pitches. ![]() An extra bedroom in the corner mostly stayed closed off and unused during our stay. ![]() It also had a well-equipped kitchen and a small bathroom where the washing machine lived. The first floor mostly consisted of a spacious living area with a TV, computer desk, dining table, and several couches and chairs. While our unit was on the nicer side, the building it was in had seen better days. However, one of our apartment neighbors had no such curfew and sometimes blared music at all hours of the night or day. The din was pretty consistent in the evenings, but never too terrible and it quieted down at a reasonable hour. The was packed with table seating for a cluster of restaurants and bars. One was pretty empty except for a half dozen (kinda terrifying) kiddie rides. The windows looked out in opposite directions over two separate courtyards (and had screens!). Our corner apartment spanned the top two levels of the building, the master bedroom and bathroom upstairs and everything else one floor down. This month we rented an Airbnb↗ right in the center of Novi Sad, on the main walking street of Zmaj Jovina. Still, they have been healing, thanks to European Union investment and the resolute citizens of Serbia’s second city. The city’s bridges and oil refinery were destroyed, and those scars have been slow to heal. During Serbia and Kosovo’s split in 1999, it was heavily bombed by NATO. We heard it compared to a house built in the middle of a road – knocked down every time some else comes through. Novi Sad’s history has been checkered the region has been passed between empires and nations almost too many times to count. More than anywhere else, people wanted to know where we were from, what we thought of the area, and to help us find the best spots and foods to see and eat. This compact Serbian city was surprisingly full of culture and curiosity. Of all the places we’ve been on this trip, we found Novi Sad the friendliest. Visa: 90 days in 180 RR REGISTRATION REQUIRED: Registration with local police on arrival is mandatory
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